"Zvichinyorwa, zvisingatauri, zvachose kwete zvematongerwo enyika uye zvinodhura zvikuru" - ndiyo imwe yemhando dzakakurumbira dzemhando dzemafashoni Jil Sander, uyo muumbi wake Heidemarie Zilin Zander, anonyatsozivikanwa saJil Sander, anozivikanwa. Mhando dzechirongwa ichi zvakambofungidzirwa kwemakore mazhinji nevakadzi vemunyika yose muyero wekunaka uye nyore.
Jill Sander ndeyemunyanzvi wemafashoni, wekupedzisira-wekugadzira mafashoni, mukadzi akashongedza zvese uye zvakanakisisa, achimushandisa kodzero yekusarudza zvakanyanya uye zvisinganzwisisiki. Akanga asingatyi kuisa musoro wePrada Holding. Chisarudzo chavo chakaita kuti kurasikirwa kwebasa rake uye kurega kubva paMafidhi House. Uye basa raGil harina kukwira nokukurumidza kumusvikidzi wakadaro. Asi pamusoro pezvose zvakarongeka.
Basa Jill Sander
Jill akaberekerwa mune rimwe guta reGermany uye akarerwa nemukadzi asina kuroorwa. Basa rake rekufashisa, haana kutanga nekambani mune imwe nzvimbo yakakurumbira yeFashion House, uye kwete ne "sheath" yevanasikana vake. Jill, seGermany yaifungidzirwa, akafanofungidzira matanho mazhinji ehupenyu hwake hweramangwana. Akasarudza kungogara mu "kicheni" yemudhizimusi wemafashoni uye zviri nani kunzwisisa zvose zvisiri nyore zvematongerwe enyika zvemafashoni. Jill Sander akatanga kumugadzirira kuenda kumiganhu yenyika, achishanda semubatsiri kumugadziri webhuku rakajeka Brigitte muHamburg uye American McCalls. Asi Jill ainge asingadi kushamwaridzana nehupenyu hwake nefashoni journalism. Akange achipisa nechishuvo chekusika zvakasununguka, uye kwete kutsoropodza zvisikwa zvevamwe vanhu. Hazvisi zvechimwe chinhu chaakadzidza machira kumba, uye ipapo paYunivhesiti yeKalifornia.
Paaiva nemakore makumi maviri nemashanu, Jill akazarura chikwata chake chokutanga muHamburg pasi pechitarisiko chaJil Sander, umo zvinhu zvokutanga zvakasikwa nemusikana muduku zvakatengeswa. Chiratidziro chekutanga cheJill Sander chakaitirwa muParis, uye gore gare gare muMilan. Vazhinji vanopembererwa, vakaneta zvikuru vakapfeka zvipfeko zvakanyanya, vakashamiswa nekufambisa uye maitiro echikadzi anotaurwa naJill Sander. Uye chimiro chemugadziri chakanga chakasiyaniswa nemitsetse yakajeka uye mafomu, humbozha hwahwo hwakanga hwakazara nemicheka yakaisvonaka. Akaratidza kunyika yose kuti hupfeve yakakwana yakatemwa inogona kutarisa zvikuru, uye chero zvese zvinopikisana nechekuita kwechirevo ichi chinonakidza chichave chisina kunaka. Vatsoropodzi vanonzi Jill "guru guru rekuongorora minimalism." Asi Jill akasiyana kwete mukupararira kweminimalism yakasimba, akachinja mhando yefashoni, "kumuputira" nenzira yakasiyana-siyana yeAion-tarisa.
Mukutanga kwema 90, Jill Sander akakunda mhizha yemafashoni centre - Paris, kwaakamuzarura kutanga mabhandi pane imwe nzvimbo inonzi Avenue Montaigne. Panguva iyo Jill akanga atowana Jil Sander Cosmetics naJil Sander Leder. Akavawo wekutanga muGermany fashion designer uyo aimiririra zvikamu zvake kwete munyika yekwawo, asi munyika yose yefashoni - Milan. Masangano ayo anonyanya kushamisika, akasiyana nekunzwisisa zvakajeka, akaita Jill mumwe wevatungamiri vekudenga. Pakati pemakore ekuma90 muU.S., Jill Sander akapiwa Mutambo weMafashiti, uye akazowedzera kubudirira kwake nekuunganidza kwevarume vezvokupfeka uye mutsara wemafuta.
Kuchinja mufashoni imba Jil Sander
Kuguma kwema1990 kwaiva kutanga kwemhirizhonga huru muFashion House yeJil Sander, apo danda rekutonga riri mu Prada Group. Asi kutengeserana kwakadaro hakuna kubudirira. Pasati papera gore gare gare, Jill akatanga kusabvumirana naPatrizio Bertelli, mutungamiriri we Prada. Zvose zvakatanga nekuti Patrizio Bertelli akataura kuti Jill anoshandisa chigadziko chekuunganidza zvisiri nyore, nokudaro kuratidzira bhizimisi-rinoita. Nenzira, Jil Sander aisabvumirana neizvi. Ipapo akada "kutamisa" kugadzirwa kwezvipfeko munyika inodhura. Anozvikudza nezita rake pachake zita rinodhura, Sander aisagona kupona. Akarova musuo ndokuenda kune imwe nzvimbo. Iko kuunganidza kwekutenga-yechando 2000-2001, semunhu wose anofunga, ndiyo yekupedzisira yakagadzirwa naGiri.
Asi makore mashoma akapfuura, uye Jill Sander akakokwa kuti adzokere kumusha wake wemafashoni. Sezviri pachena, pasina muiti wechiratidzo, zvinhu hazvina kufamba zvakanaka. Ikokutevera yakatevera yakangofadza yose yefashoni yemunharaunda. Muoni wacho akaomba achimira! Asi, nhamo, Jil Sander anofara kudzoka haana kugara kwenguva refu. Haana kumbokwanisa kuwana mutauro wakafanana ne Prada Group, uye zvakare akarega.
Panguva ino, mararami anogara, asi atova hupenyu huri kuzvimirira, achikudziridza tsika dzehupfumi husingaperi hwokuti nheyo yeiyo inoiswa. Uye Gil Sander pachake anoramba ari mumumvuri weFashion House uye achishingairira kuti zvose zvinokodzera mafashoni. Zvichida kana Jill Sander akanga asinganeta nezvose izvi zvemafashoni uye asina kusiya mari yake, zvinhu zvose zvaizova zvakasiyana ... Asi akashandisa kodzero yake yekuzvisarudzira zvikuru.
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